New Post – Independence Day Reminders

http://blog.mysanantonio.com/latrenda/2013/07/are-you-well-stocked-for-july-4th/

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Why treat a dog who is doing nothing?

From Chill Out Fido!: How to Calm Your Dog (Dogwise Training Manual) by Nan Kene Arthur

The best way to explain this would be for you to consider all the things your dog could be doing besides sniffing the ground, sitting, or lying down-such as jumping up on you, harking at you, whining, chewing his leash, etc. You are rewarding those spaces in time when your dog is actually doing an acceptable behavior (exhibiting relaxed behaviors) in contrast to the ones most people do not want! As you reward these calm moments, the calmness will start to grow stronger because, as you have learned, dogs repeat bethat result in rewards.

My Reactive Dog

Meet my special little red dog, Matt-Matt. He really is a good boy. He just gets a little over stimulated sometimes and he can be a little reactive on leash at times. His Mom (me) is mostly to blame because I worry about him and of course he picks up on that. Sometimes I hold the leash too tightly. That reduces his movement, affects his body language and can make him more nervous, thus reacting more.

Another issue I have that most humans have is attributing my human emotions onto him: My other 3 dogs enjoy meetups so it’s not fair to keep Matt-Matt away from meetups (in my mind). So because I felt bad about not taking him out, I took him to dog walking meetups even though they stressed him. Of course if he’s stressed, I’m stressed, and if I’m stressed he’s stressed and so on and so forth.

I’m not saying one shouldn’t take their reactive dogs to meetups. But for Matt-Matt’s sake, I should keep him far enough at a distance so the he feels comfortable – far away enough that he doesn’t feel the need to lunge or bark at others.
I’ve been telling people about Karen Pryor and how dogs should take baby steps but I’ve been a hypcrit because I have been tossing pour Matt-Matt direclty into meetups where he is surrounded from all sides by dogs.

I finally realized my mistake when I was reading a book by Turd Rugaas – Barking: the Sound of a language. It wasn’t even the words in the book that got to me. It was a picture on page 31 of the book. Caption: “Standing with your dog at a distance watching other dogs is a good strategy”. The picture shows several dogs in a large field (much like Culebra) with one person standing far away with his dog. The dog standing far way looks very calm and the handler also looks relaxed. At that moment I decided that is what Matt-Matt needed.

I had not driven out to Culebra park before simply because I hate driving (for many reasons) and I have 3 other dogs at home. I like to make my individual trips short so that I can get back to the other dogs. But after looking at the picture, I felt like the long trip (over an hour) would be worth it.

Not only was it worth it, it exceeded my expectations. Matt-Matt was calmer, more relaxed and so was I.
We started at the other end of the field. He did so well that we moved closer than I expected than we could in one day. He never barked, lunged, glared, stared, or even stiffened. I know that Matt-Matt isn’t going to be cured in one day, mind you. Maybe he won’t ever enjoy a close-up meetup with a bunch of dogs. But that’s okay. I want to do what makes him happy, not what makes my other dogs happy; not what makes me happy.
Just like humans, every dog is an individual. Some humans love to go to night clubs, get loud and party with their friends. I prefer a quiet evening at home with the fur kids.

Will your reactive dog be able to move as close as Matt-Matt and I did on Sunday? Maybe not or maybe you could have moved in closer. It depends on the dog. We have to be patient.

If your dog is reactive, I urge you to take the trip at least once, start at the other end of the field, give your dog a bunch of good treats. Maybe even issue some commands. You might be pleasantly suprised.

So what are some general ways you can help your reactive dog:
● Check your own behaviors.

○ Do you hold the leash too tightly? Restricting your dog’s head movement? Do you get nervous for your dog when other dogs/humans come around? Your perceptive doggie is going to feel this and react accordingly

○ Do you punish/scold your dog for aggressing? Yanking your dog harshly and repeatedly on the neck when she aggresses? Do you poke your dog, yell at your dog, kick your dog, hit your dog when she aggresses? This type of behavior tells your dog that when another dog is around, bad things are going to happen to him, thus making his reactiveness worse

● Don’t alter his/her body parts

○ Dogs communicate with other dogs with their ears, their tails and their entire bodies. Altering a dog’s body parts can affect how they communicate. So besides pain, surgical complications, etc.. shortening, cropping, docking ears/tails can have an adverse affect on their relationships with other dogs

■Of course this isn’t going to happen all the time. But if your dog is prone to be reactive, cropping certainly isn’t going to help. Dr Stanly Coren (in his book: How to Speak Dog) speaks of a friend’s dog who had to get his tail docked for a medical necessity. The dog got into a lot more scuffles afterwards. It may not affect how your dog reacts but it is going to affect how other dogs react to your dog. Which isn’t going to help a dog who is already reactive

■Of course there are occasionally medical reasons to do this. Make sure the medical reason is sound and is a last resort. Example: If a dog constantly gets ear infections, you can clean the ears daily or use an ear sock to open up the ears rather than cropping.

● Don’t throw your dog into the lake.

○ This is a figureative way for me to say, don’t set your dog up for failure. Example: Your human child doesn’t know how to swim, you don’t throw him into the lake. This will probably make him afraid of water for the rest of his life rather than teach him how to swim. Instead of throwing your child into the lake, you take baby steps. First you get your child to wade in the water. Then you get her comfortable with putting her head under water. Then maybe you help her float while holding her. Then maybe you let her dog paddle a little….etc.
The same can be said of your dog. If you know that your dog is reactive or nervous around other dogs, tossing your poor baby into a dog park is not only not going to help, it might make your dog’s reactiveness worse
Forcing your dog to meet other dogs when she is nervous or aggressing is also not going to help. Take baby steps, start at a distance far away enough to where your dog feels comfortable. If this is 300 feet away, so be it. There is no rush. Take your time moving up to 250 feet, 200 feet, 198 feet, etc..
Learn about body language and don’t force your dog to do things that might get him into trouble. For instance face to face meetings can cause problems. Holding the leash too tightly, restricting your dog’s movement can cause problems

● Spay/Neuter your dog
So many reasons to get your dog fixed. Including aggression issues. You see it all time. People get a puppy who is sweet and loves everyone but for some strange reason, at about 1 year to 15 months, this normally sweet dog starts reacting to other dogs (and sometimes humans) negatively. One of the factors mostly likely is hormones. It’s never to late to get your dog fixed, but the earlier, the better. Talk to your vet about a how early is acceptable.
Let your dog live with you as a family member.
Dogs are naturally social animals. Isolating a dog outside all day will have a negative affect on her mental state
Do not leave your dog tethered unattended for long periods of time.
So many reasons to not do this – including well documented evidence of aggression.
Exercise your dog but don’t over exercise.
Exercise can release tension and reduce stress but excessive exercise can increase stress. Be extremely careful about riding your bike with your dog or roller blading with you dog. This is fine to do as long as you can recognize your dog’s stress signals. Some dogs are so willing to please that they won’t stop no matter how exhausted they are. You will have to know when to stop. Remember that your bike, roller blades etc. is making the work much easier on you. Your dog will tire long before you do.
You can’t go wrong with 2 calm walks a day. If your dog pulls on the leash, read My Dog Pulls by Turid Rugaas. Excellent information in the book to help with loose leash walking.
Get your dog into training.
Just learning and responding to some basic commands – sit, lay down, etc.. can help your dog in stressful situations
Mental stimulation is just as important as physical stimuation
You can also give your dog food puzzles as a way to help work the brain
Read everything you can from Turid Rugaas. Excellent resource for postive reinforcement and understanding and appreciating natural dog behaviors http://www.canis.no/rugaas/
Then read everything you can from Karen Pryor: http://www.clickertraining.com/
My favorites thus far – Click to Calm by Pryor/Parsons, Barking: The Sound of a Language by Rugaas, and My Dog Pulls by Rugaas

Related Articles/Links on positive reinforcment, reactive dogs, dog socialization, etc..
San Antonio Big Dawgs – Dog Meetup Group: http://sabigdawgs.com
Karen Pryor – Clicking with Canines http://www.clickingwithcanines.com/id33.html
Introduce your dog to another dog in 10 easy steps – Post on SA Big Dawgs: http://www.meetup.com/sabigdawgs/messages/boards/thread/9699044/0#37551542
Dog Aggression – An enlightening Article – SA Big Dawgs Post: http://www.meetup.com/sabigdawgs/messages/boards/thread/9498186/0#36921829
Fenceline Aggression – SA Big Dawgs Post about Youtube channel Kiko Pup- excellent resource for positive training: http://www.meetup.com/sabigdawgs/messages/boards/thread/9411093/0#36905037
Walking a Reactive Dog: http://docs.google.com/View?id=ddtbr7bw_816hptgp5gf
Pet Care Education Blog: http://petcareeducation.blogspot.com/

Direct Link to this document: http://docs.google.com/View?id=ddtbr7bw_1117dd92qtdg

Safe Outdoor Cats

The best place for cats is indoors all the time but if they must be outdoors (because of other pets or some other reason:

You can put up a chainlink fence outside around a window in the house (put a top on the chainlink fence). Inside the house, put an enclosure around that window that extends into part of the room. That indoor enclosure should also have a top. The put a little cat door around the window.   So that way, the cats can come in and out, but not be mixed with the other pets. And the cat door will keep some of the heat/cold from getting into the house. 
Or if you have or can create a  spare room, then close off that room. That way the cats can come in and out of that room.
The indoor and outdoor enclosures and/or room can be set up to be cat friendly – scratching posts, carpeted “cat trees” to climb, some pet friendly grasses, etc.. Maybe some nice pando music * piped in.
I’ve even seen some really fancy indoor enclosures with little fountains and streams. 
Here are some examples you can ponder.
 
Here is a house in San Antonio:  House with outdoor enclosure. This is probably made for birds, and you won’t need anything this fancy, but hopefully it will give you an idea of what I’m talking about.
 
Other ideas here:  Safe Outdoor Cats
Or add an addtion to your fence that hangs over into the yard making it difficult for the cat to climb over.  This can also work for a dogs who jump fences:
 
Some people might think this is crazy, but think about it:  Get your cats used to a harness. Take them for  walks. Yes, people will look at you like you are crazy, but why not?  Most puppies hate a leash at first but once they learn how much fun it is to go for walks, they won’t leave you alone.  Yes, your cats are already grown, but I’ve taught many adults dogs who have never been on leash before (including my own) to learn to like the leash.
 
Something else to consider if the harness idea just doesn’t work for you – Musical rooms.  Lots of folks do it.  Put the other pets in a room or a couple of rooms or crates (I don’t know the size of your house), then bring in the outdoor cats and spend time with them.  Then put the outdoor cats back out, bring out the other pets and spend time with them.  Do this about 3 times a day.  Might require you to get up a little earlier because you’ll want to do this before work, but it might be worth it.  See what other activities you can cut back on to make this work.
 
Also talk to a behaviorist to see how you can integrate the cats into the household.  Maybe if you take baby steps – starting with the indoor enclosure, maybe the cats can eventually get along with the rest of the family.  Or at least perhaps they can all be out together when you are home to supervise, then separated when you are not at home.
 
Outdoor enclosures, behaviorists, etc.. – all very expensive, and times are tight for everyone.  But look at things you can sell or cut back on.  Try to find used chain link fencing, see what you can do yourself.  Depending on how determined the kitties are, you might be able to get by with 50 dollars worth of goat fencing and 30 dollars worth of posts to put something together yourself.  You can ask the customer service folks at Lowes or Home Depot to help with a plan
Or Google “How to Build a Cat Enclosure to see what you can come up with
Here is one example: How to Build a Cat Enclosure
 
* Pando Music – Dr Dan Kirby mentioned this product on his radio show.  He endorsed it.
For more Pet Care Articles, please see